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Men's Fashion Week: A Look at Austrian Designers

Article featured in austrianfashion.net by Ana Lee, editor at I V Y paris.

During Men's Paris Fashion week, Austrian designers Superated, Ute Ploier, and Wilfried Mayer held showrooms for the occasion. "I took a tour of their collections before heading out to Petar Petrov's show to get an idea of today's Austrian fashion and was pleasantly surprised to find extremely focused and thoughtful designs." Garments incorporated new shapes and fine detailing into classic cuts. The clothing was sharp and sleek fitting, remixing influences to create something altogether new.


Delurk

Superated's DE - LURK collection showed clean, lightweight, well - tailored pieces paired with elements of streetstyle (bomberjackets, and converse derivatives). The collection lies in the idea of nature, pixelized.

A sequence of photos show a wooded landscape, two models stand in the distance. As we approach them, their faces become blurred, slowly we notice another lurking in the distance. A ghost? An apparition perhaps. We look even further, but forms don't take shape, we are only left with particles.

Superated enraptures this moment between standing out and blending in with the background. The color scheme includes dark hues of navy and grey , muted asparagus green and corn yellow knitwear, contrasting with bright azure blue sportswear. In a more obvious esthetic, shirts and tanks are imprinted with a myriad of dots, a cosmopolitan camouflage if you will.


The Superated man carries a Peter Pan complex, the clothing gives off an image of a working man not yet ready to let go of teenage nostalgia. Pants worn at the hip leave a lingering schoolboy charm. Juvenile shorts hit high above the knee.

The Austrian designer staple lays within cuts that take on simple sophisticated lines with edgy youthful details. Sleeveless sweaters have exaggerated/ over-extended slits. Off the collar pockets line jacket zippers. Slim trousers are worn purposely short, revealing the ankle slightly.


DE - LURK revisits familiar retro shapes; what was once your cheap thrift shop windbreaker, is now made of refined polyurethane. The elastic cuffs, and waistband are still there, but the fit is sleeker and the material richer.

The Superated man is sensitive to detail. The clothing carries an airy, playful quality. Crisp conservative shirts with sharp lines are less intense when matched against easy slip-on comfort clothing.
The friction between the two styles enhance the idea of a unique individual, free to chose his own identity, entering a conservative work force, but maintaining a laissez faire greenness.

The man is like the photo, half exposed to the light, yet hovering amidst the shadows -- dazed and confused. We can only capture the matter from which he is made.

Read full article on austrianfashion.net.

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