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Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2009: Week 2

Daniel Scheffler writing for I V Y paris

31Monday: Choir boys and traces of verbal beauty at the Gaspard Yurkievich show (featured left) were mesmerising, emblazoning the heydays (the better days) of great 70s glamour muses. Metallic silvers playing art deco were draped and decorated from all good angles. The ambience sneered with style and absolute eccentricity. The show of the moment.

Photo: courtesy of Shoji Fuji

The blacks against the whites and the ruffles of playful turkish designer Dice Kayek sprung hopes of new pleats and interesting colour blocking. Always perfectly on trend and stylishly panached, the collection starts and finishes with serious melodic whispers in its gravitational pull.

Tuesday: Imagine if the boyish biker mice from mars played basketball and were sexy skinny and dressed in denim wear. The Marithé & Francois Girbaud collection enjoyed dribblings of basketball prints, shoe laces and big pocketed tiny dresses. High contrast blues ranged to summery stone with pleats and suspenders to hold the hoop. Shiny sneakers tipped the over flowing venue over into a freshness and complete concept from beginning to execution.

Issey Miyake filled the forest with human trees with knuckled and knocked barks of trees. The draping and oversizing resembled the flow of the jungle and the complete style and sophistication of leaf-like textured fabrics brought the world to light. Combined with complicated size thread weave and a-poc inside technology ,the fabric was reminiscent of rocky formations, three dimensional rivers coming to mouth and reptiles in off black and pitch dark browns slinking the surface in celebrations of green.

A clapping carnivorous festival of circus kitch, an indian summer delight of colour, trapeze and delight juggled by as Manish Arora (featured left), the designer from decadent New Delhi, showed us elephants, peacocks and shine. A theatre of sequins and bright sherbert colours with stiff structures revealed the carnivalesque side of the circus tent.

Wednesday: The slick design of Karl Lagerfeld provided aesthetic hope and classy answers to us all. Even peering over I could see Anna Wintour smiling. Blacks and royal blues, with shine and gloss, emcompass a collection as it is called comes together beautifully in a kaptivating kapsule.

A hot day in Mumbai, with flowing dresses and sparkly raindrops dribbling down light linens and silks, enriched Andrew Gn and his signature French exclusivity. The collection moved from brights to sea corlas, to deep greens.

A highlight of fashion week, as always, Dries Van Noten (left) impresses and funfills with beauty incarnate. The Belgian designer showed golds, blacks, and big geometric prints. Forgetting the times and developing a signature with multi prints and multi texture, the culture clash look is far from over.

Colours, fabrics and wild flowers...more colours explode on the runway with big hair and high heels. Christian Lacroix, the French icon and inspirational experiential fabric user, utilised his southern roots and explored again the gypsy in his heart.

Thursday: Imagine the Lord of the Flies, just with girls. No men. From tribal music that grained black into your thoughts to masks made from cement glue to scribbles, to confusion, Bernard Wilhelm, the German, impressed with another range of obscure ready to wear over sized T-shirt dresses and voluminous sleeves. Even bruno (the new Borat) was there, unsuccessfully trying to highjack the show from the sidelines.

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