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NYC Part 1 - The Perfect Foil for Paris

Susie Hollands writing for I V Y paris

Picture 1

With a recent stay drawing to an end there is a bitter sweet quality about returning to France and not just because I'll have to swap Wholefoods mind-boggling aisles for dusty Franprix and Leader Price. 

I'll miss pleasantly passing the time of day with those in the service professions (about a weeks assimilation before I remembered this was common in other parts of the world than Paris).  Let's take the New Yorker's bistro du coin, Pastis. It looks exactly like every french bistro you may have ever have known or imagined, the McNally patina and creation of ambience is legendary.  From it's faux ciggie-yellowed ceiling to the scratched and battered toilet stall doors, (salvaged perhaps from a Montpellier chiotte ?) it would be better named Pastiche. 

In an eerie post-modern way it's better than any bistro I've been to in Paris for a good long while.  The serveurs are pleasing to the eye, rapid with one's order, funny and good humored.  A French Onion soup is hearty and reasonably priced. The bread baked at their Balthazar boulangerie is equally as fine as the ubiquitous Poilane. Lunch at $10 (or 7.50 euros) is excellent value. This includes a ring-side seat at the bar and chat with one's neighbouring diners, banter with the staff and a first-class view of the bustling theatre of the room and those working it - because it is a scene. I leave feeling full, satisfied and feeling I got great value for money. It doesn't happen to me often in Paris these days.

If you are hankering for the old-school Parisian service, toddle down to Nolita and Café Gitane. The sullen staff will happily ignore you and chat with their preferred local customers.

20 Poets

Queneau 1. Charles Baudelaire
2. Guillaume Appollinaire
3. Arthur Rimbaud
4. Jacques Prévert
5. Robert Desnos
6. Stéphane Mallarmé
7. Victor Hugo
8. Raymond Queneau
9. Jean Cocteau
10. Paul Valéry
11. Charles Péguy
12. Paul Verlaine
13. Paul Eluard
14. René Char
15. Alfred de Vigny
16. Louis Aragon
17. Samuel Beckett
18. Alfred de Musset
19. François de Malherbe
20. Michel Ohl

Photo features Raymond Queneau

HF | RG at Jeu de Paume



The exhibition "H F | R G" at Jeu de Paume, Place de Concorde, brings together the visions of two important contemporary artists, Harun Farocki and Rodney Graham, whose work has a great deal in common through their interest in film and video, its history and the idea of self-representation.

Both present film-based installations reflect four themes that structure their respective bodies of work: the archive, the nonverbal, the machine (and devices), and montage. Both artists have produced new work for this exhibition ongoing now through June 7th, 2009.

DOTMOV Festival 2009

Dotmov2009Japanese online magazine SHIFT presents the DOTMOV Festival 2009, a digital film festival looking to discover talented creators, working in the audio / visual and design fields.

Selected films will be screened in international venues starting November 2009. Last year 289 films were submitted from 37 countries. The jury includes the German design studio Feed Deutschland, UK based Designers Republic, and Japanese multidisciplinary artist Yoshi Sodeoka among others.

Work should be sent in (VHS/S-VHS), mini DV (NTSC), or DVD (video format/NTSC or PAL) formats to:

Shift Magazine
3F Sasshin Bld., S6 W11 Chuo-ku, Sapporo 064-0806, Japan.

Application form and guidelines here.
Deadline: September 10th, 2009

Aux Bains Montorgueil

Bainsmontorgueil The Bains Montorgueil is like stepping into a scene in Arabian Nights and it's Moroccan decor creates an intimate space.

Located on two floors, this hammam has an oriental lounge, massage room, steam baths and a mosaic pool for cooling off.



The staff are friendly and attentive relaxation time. Massages and exfoliation with savon noir start at 70 euros with facials at 50 euros.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays, from 10h to 21h.
Reservations are a must: 01 44 88 01 78

Aux Bains Montorgueil
55 rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris

Festival Villette Sonique

May 27, 2009 through May 31, 2009

EXE_HD_Villettesonique100x150 The Villette Sonique music festival out is now becoming a cult phenomenon. The set up as musical theme park should make for a great weekend.

This year's line-up involves rock, pop, and electro artists both well-known and yet to be discovered curiosities, such as Diplo, Monotix, and Men Without Pants (the group - not actual men without pants, which is also in itself a curiosity).




Full program below:

Wednesday, May 27th \ Charlie Parker \ 19h30

  • MEN WITHOUT PANTS (aka Dan the Automator & Russel Simmins)
  • THE JESUS LIZARD
  • SUNN O))) performing The GrimmRobe Demos

Thursday, May 28th \ Cabaret Sauvage \ 19h30

  • ARIEL PINK’ HAUNTED GRAFFITI
  • LIARS
  • BLACK LIPS

More on: Festival Villette Sonique

Le Grand Fooding d'Été

Sunday, May 24th, 2009

Fooding1 Every year, the Bureau of Fooding have been organizing the Grand Fooding d’Eté where all profits go to Action contre la Faim (Action against Hunger). If you're in Paris and have 10 euros to spare, head out to Domaine National de St Cloud for a great cause and a gastronomic delight.

For those outside of Paris, the event will also be taking place in Nice, Lyon, Strasbourg, Marseille and Toulouse. And for those in the US, the Fooding d'Amour will be coming to New York in September. More information here.

The Paris fooding goes from 12h to 16h. To avoid the await by your ticket in advance and get a coupe-file at your local Monoprix.

Grand Fooding d'été 2009 menu at the break.

More on: Le Grand Fooding d'Été

20 Terraces

Marley_resize 1. Café Marly, 1er
2. Café Suedois, 4e
3. Tokyo Eat, 16e
4. Les Deux Magots, 6e
5. Corcorans 18e
6. Stolly's, 4e
7. Chez Prune, 10e
8. Andy Wahloo, 3e
9.  Café Carette, 16e
10. Café de la Mosquée de Paris, 5e
11. La Mer à Boire, 20e
12. Point Ephèmere, 10e
13. Le Pause Café, 11e
14. Batofar, 13e
15. Café Sancerre, 18e
16. Le Mini Palais, 8e
17. L'Entrepôt, 14e
18. Point Ephémère, 10e
19. Le Soleil, 20e
20. Bar du Marché 6e

Drawing by Francis van der Riet

Les Trois Murs du 20e

Ana Lee writing for I V Y paris

Strolling through Belleville is like a walk in an outdoor gallery - particularly when you hit les 3 Murs du 20e, consisting of rue Dénoyez, rue de l'Ermitage, and rue Ramponeau now known as "La Kommune". These three streets have now become outdoor creative spaces, transforming urban surfaces into artistic mediums.

Denoyez1P1180421 One side of rue Dénoyez is a gigantic canvas, the other, a stream of artists' ateliers, dressed in Collectif Antipub's political messages. For those outside of paris, witness the ever-evolving murals on the street's blog here.

Further into the street, you'll find the gallery Frichez nous la Paix, featuring [indoor] work by local artists. Taggeurs can also submit signed stickers to sell - or if you collect sticker art, this is the place to go.


The wall's current graffiti artists include SIRIUS, NACIO, and SKIO, and if you're lucky you can catch Nice Art stenciling familiar faces (Rimbaud, Proust...) on a Sunday afternoon.

More on: Les Trois Murs du 20e

meilleurAmi

Picture 1 Established in 2008 and based in Paris, meilleurAmi is a publishing house dedicated to men's accessories.

Their bags reveal traditional principles, each handcrafted by French artisans. Models are designed to improve with age, and are made with vegetable tanned leather. Colours can change with humidity and sun; the leather quietly wears in with use. Every edition is limited in number.


You can catch meilleurAmi in unexpected spaces, such as at the ArtyDandy concept store and Librairie Ofr. Currently at the florist shop Hysope and Cie (104 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003) for the week.

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