I V Y Paris News

Anahi, South Argentinian Cuisine

You could be forgiven for thinking this was a condemmed building, far from the centre of town.  It's actually the facade of Argentinian restaurant Anahi.

Located in the Haut, Haut Marais, on rue Volta - closer to Porte St Denis and République than now chi-chi Square du Temple - Volta was actually a street that was classed as "insalubre" until recently. 

Now the old squat across the road is being tarted up but the entrance to this still popular-with-the-odd-Fashonista restaurants remains, distinctly, Verdegris. Inside it's old white and green edged tiles are reminisent of a public bathroom but apparently it was a Charcuterie in days gone by.

Photo by Armando Rampas

Pink Flamingo Pizza

The Canal St. Martin is one the city’s hippest new neighborhoods. Take advantage of the great weather by strolling along the water and maybe stop by Pink Flamingo Pizza on rue Bichat for some of the best pizza in town.

Creative flavor combinations, made with delicious super-fresh ingredients and sporting clever names like the Basquiat, the Bjork and the Ghandi, served in a cheerful, kitsch atmosphere, make it more than worth the trip. 

As an added bonus, they offer a terrific take-away service: after ordering, you’re given a pink balloon, then just tie the balloon to your wrist or your belt, sit down on the edge of the Canal and relax, the delivery guy will find you by spotting the balloon!  Picnics, or rather ‘hipnics’,  are a summertime tradition for those who live on the Canal. Enjoy!

Communication Problems

Badaude's Joanna Walsh writing and illustrating for I V Y paris

Last week Badaude turned two and was cited in the Wall Street Journal (I wrote the IVYParis piece they quote from - that will teach me to call them silly). To celebrate, I am eating out at Au Pied de Fouet on rue de Babylone, just beyond Le Bon Marché

The restaurant is in the 6e, in the heart of movie-set Paris; the part tourists visit to chase a little Saint-Germain romance.

Tonight, that's what I want. I don't want to go to Bastille or Menilmontant. I want Paris to be like Paris in the movies.

It's hot. The batiments of the rue de Babylone have been freshly whitewashed by the set designers. My footsteps echo on the sound stage of the empty pavement. Do I have a date? Yes. Does he turn up? No. I wait. This is less like a movie. I text. I'm hungry. I decide not to wait any longer.

Bougies Pierre Hermé

The famed chef pâtissière, Pierre Hermé has joined forces with perfumers Olivia Giacobetti and Jean-Michel Duriez to capture the same sumptuous savors of his macaroons and world renown desserts. "Sucre de bois" and "Herbes d'amandes" should leave a tasty fragrance in your home this summer. 38 euros per candle, 36 euros for two small ones.

Pierre Hermé
72 rue Bonaparte
75006 Paris

and

185 rue Vaugirard
75015 Paris

American Breakfast in Paris

A 50s diner, no big deal - but a 50s diner in the midst of Paris offers a surreal, Lynch-like experience.

Brunch (pancakes, bacon, eggs, a "Bottomless Mug O'Joe"...) is served at all hours of the day. The plus; they also serve beer.

The scene is mostly made up of Parisian hipsters, nostalgic foreigners, and the occasional French greaser. Personally, I'd go for the banana milkshakes after a vintage movie screening at Action Ecoles.

Black Calavados Breathes Life Back into the 8ème

If you're tired of the same old same old in the 8eme, we understand. Paris is a city of institutions, be it cafe, museum or house of some dead writer and the 8ème is no exception. Far from it.

Once you're done with the George V and Regine's and realized that classic doesn't always mean hip, you might want to look elsewhere.

Ex-Soundgarden and Audioslave frontman Chris Cornell has recently relocated to Paris and remade the famous nightclub Calavados into the
branding stroke of genius Black Calavados. Must've been the quickest paycheck they ever made. Old! New! Edgy! Dark! And just maybe fun.

Black Calavados
40, Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie
75008 Paris

Guilo-Guilo

Exceptional Japanese cuisine in the heart of Montmartre, the Guilo-Guilo is held by renowned Kyoto chef Eiichi Edakuni.

Unique menu composed of little dishes (tempura de figues, sashimi de thon rouge sauce aux salsifis chinois, sushi de fois gras, gelée de citron vert...) prepared on the spot by a team of chefs in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere.

The menu changes every month, hence the name a derivative of "giro-giro" - italian expression that evokes the ideas of rotation, renewal, and evolution.

Reasonable prices make this culinary experience accessible to all.
Menu dégustation at 48 euros, formule at 16 euros after 10pm.

Le Nouveau Carillon - When You Need A Big Salad

If you've just finished a scenic romp aorund the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur and find yourself hungry, walk down the street from metro Abbesses to the corner of Rue des Martyrs. Le Nouveau Carillon sits just at the corner, but pay attention, because you'll most likely miss it on account of a glaringly pink boutique that dominates the scene.

Take a seat at one of the outdoor tables at Le Nouveau Carillon and order one of the Grandes Assiettes Fraicheur… or in English, “The Really Big Salads.”  Yes, a salad. But before you scoff at the idea of ordering just a salad, look first at the description of this just a salad.

‘Le Carillon’ : haricots verts, agrumes, magrets fumés, copeaux de foie gras, échalotes, œuf dur, jambon de pays - 13,00 €

The generous portion of foie gras is worth the price alone, but the magrets, œuf dur, and jambon de pays could constitue a meal unto themselves. It should be noted that there is a certain atmospheric delight in watching Bobos buy surfer shorts and Hawaiian shirts at said exercise in color scheme disasters across the street.

Le Nouveau Carillon
Adresse : 1, rue des Abbesses
Métro : Abbesses

Le Petit Prince

Ana Lee writing for I V Y paris

You'll find the Petit Prince right by the Pantheon, on one of the Quartier Latin's little cobblestone passages. An intimate place to dine, with excellent service and a relaxed atmosphere.

Their fixed menus (around 20 euros) change by the season, offering avant-garde French cuisine with dishes like the "flan de courgettes aux Saint-Jacques et toast de pain d'épice," and the "Porcelet au miel et au vin rouge." Délicieux!

L'Epi Dupin

It's no big secret having been written up elsewhere but L'Epi deserves a mention.  As long as you don't feel "cheated" if you dine where there are more gastro- tourists than you can shake a stick at you'll be rewarded with a fabulous three course meal and dreamy cheeseboard.  Make a reservation well in advance and be prepared to be on time with no plans to linger - with three sittings a night they pack 'em in.  The colour scheme leaves a lot to be desired (mustard yellow and brick red) but it's not enough to put one off the food by Chef François Pasteau.

L’Epi Dupin
11 rue Dupin,
75007 Paris
Métro Sevres-Babylone
01 42 22 64 56
Closed on the weekends and Monday lunch and the first three weeks in August

Patisserie of Pierre Hermé

Paris' most famous Pâtissier - the macrons are the most celebrated offering but the whole selection and presentation is delicious.  Constantly updating his flavours  means there is real innovation ("Anyone fancy a fig, eglantine and foie gras macaron?").  Some connoisseurs feel the Hervé macarons are a bit too sweet - he has responded with a inspired savoury-ish collection, (Balsamic vinegar, chocolate-foie gras).  We believe he has the edge over his competitors.  Tantalising titilation for your tastebuds.

Pierre Hermé
72 rue Bonaparte
75006
185, rue Vaugirard
75015

Hot Pastrami at Sacha Finkelsztajn

After having raided the town for some marinated meats, I finally found my haven on Rue des Rosiers in the Marais. Here you can find a number of Jewish Delis specializing in "Yiddish Gastronomy."

Among the many, Sacha Finkelsztajn offers a different take on the pastrami sandwich, layering lean spiced beef, slim cucumber and tomato slices, red chili paste, and eggplant caviar on an onion roll.

L'île de Crète

Pamela Price writing for I V Y Paris

Sure, it's great to walk out of the discoteque at 4 in the morning and chow down on a sandwich grec (gyro) because the take-out hole in the wall is the only food place open, but what if it's 12 P.M. and you want to eat without worrying about your entire sandwich falling out of your hands and splattering onto the sidewalk? Head for L'île de Crète: serving cuisine Crétoise since 1973...

Le Georges V Four Seasons Hotel

Le Georges V is a fabulous art déco landmark hotel dating from 1928, just off the Champs Elysées.  This meeting place for business or perhaps pleasure is the favoured spot of well-heeled Parisiennes.  This year the christmas décor is inspired by Dan Flavin's strip lights, an inventive break from the norm.  It's no surprise because the hotel's resident Fleuriste, Jeff Leatham (voted twice best florist in Europe) is a world leader in trends and has to stay one step ahead of the game.  Originally at the Four Seasons in Beverley Hills his fans include Ungaro and Cher.........

Le Grand Colbert for Paris' Best Christmas Hot Chocolate

Eileen Mcaliney writing for I V Y paris.
If you want a special inexpensive Christmas treat in Paris with friends, I can recommend Le Grand Colbert for real hot chocolate (le vrai chocolat chaud)!  A gorgeous historical restaurant in the heart of the Palais Royal district with lots of low lighting, mirrors and Christmas lights.  This restaurant was featured in the movie "Somethings Got to Give" with Jack Nicholas and Diane Keaton.  You can experience the magic for 8 euros (2 chocolat chauds) instead of 180 Euros (dinner for 2).

Le "Mini Palais" au Grand Palais

 
This new (summer '07) restaurant slinked under the colonnades of Le Grand Palais when they re-opened after 50 years.  With it's contemporary décor and cusine - rémoulade de foie gras and blanc de volaille poché are two of the show stoppers from chef Gilles Choukroun - it's a hit with those searching for a chic terrasse space.

Mini Palais
Perron Alexandre III
Avenue Winston Churchill
75008 Paris
Tel : 01 42 56 42 42

Karl Bistro

This trendy restaurant gives a nice twist to the usual French bistro. Great deco, intimate lighting, and clean presentation--not to mention good background music for once.

 

Chez Le Libanais

 
Lebanese cuisine is a favorite in Paris.  Lebanon was a French UN mandate from the end of WWI until WWII, (Beirut was nicknamed of "Paris of the East") and over the years the cuisine has infiltrated the Parisian scene.  You'll find many of the better restaurants in the 15th arrondissement but outposts are scattered everywhere else, anything from scruffy working-class cafés and street-vendors to elegant, classical cuisine in up-scale restaurants.

In the last few years the take-away Lebanese sandwich has caught on. It provides a tasty and healthy alternitive to the ubiquitous "Sandwich Greque" with chips/frites/fries.  On the rue Saint-André-des-Arts a partcularly nice shop has just opened - highlights include the lebanese pizza, (with a beautifully light and crispy base), lebanese sandwiches and good falafel, hummous and lebneh (a white yogurt-ish sauce).  They also have a big wide-screen tv showing 60's movies in Arabic, when Beirut was arguably the most cosmopolitan city in the Arab world and the women all seemed to be wearing Paco Rabanne-esque mini-dresses.

Chez Le Libanais
35 rue Saint-André-des-Arts
75006 Paris
Métro - St-Michel, Odeon, Cluny-La-Sorbonne
7 days a week

Ze Kitchen Galerie

Owner/Chef William Ledeuil

A burst of colour and invention in a world of heavy sauces and (well-loved but) dull staples of French Cuisine.  Sometimes one yearns for something more fresh, light and modern in Paris.  Despite the awful name, we'd recommend you head to Ze Kitchen Galerie.  Around for quite some time though Owner/Chef William Ledeuil is still firmly at the helm of this fusion temple, minutely supervising the beautiful composition and preparation of each plate before it leaves the kitchen.   The menu is inspired by traditional french cuisine but with a spin - exotic herbs and spices, fruits and a definite South-East Asian influence.  The protégé of Guy Savoy gets busy with the lemongrass, wasabi, yuzu, goyave, galangal and ginger in a scintillating fashion. The restaurant shows contemporary artists such as Jacques Bosser, Thibaur de Reimpre and Léopold Gest, Danial Humair and Tony Soulié.  Just the place to head for on one of Paris' grey days.

Ze Kitchen Galerie
4 rue des Grands Augustins
75006
(01) 44 32 00 32

Savon d'Alep and Orientale Treats

Savon d'Alep was the first hard soap in the world and is justifiably famous. Made with no artificial additives and chemicals, just pure olive oil and sweet bay oil, it dates back thousands of years and is made in Aleppo in Syria.   

Savon de Marseille is a mere youngster in comparison dating from the 15th century and was a copy-cat version of Savon d'Alep.

For the best buy, head for one of Ménilmontant's orientale grocery shops, and pick up a supply for 2 euros a handsome sized block.

Kiwi Corner

Kiwi Corner introduces a new creative approach to cuisine now found in New Zealand, Australia and the South Pacific, and this has been combined with a Polynesian interior decoration, excellent selection of New Zealand/Australian wines, beers and produce, and the typical downunder warmth and hospitality.
Dishes include a Filet de Kangourou for the more daring (a Kangaroo filet with a smoked BBQ sauce & a roast garlic mash) and for dessert, the Pavlova (featured left) is divine.
Kiwi Corner
25, rue Servandoni
75006 Paris
Tél : 01 46 33 12 06

Aux Crus de Bourgogne

Want to eat where the Parisians do? This is the place. More foie gras and lobster than you can shake a stick at.

Aux Crus de Bourgogne
3 rue Bachaumont
75002
01 42 33 48 24

Bellota-Bellota

A menu of dishes based on the shop’s Spanish hams, cheeses and premium canned goods. Not only does it sell little treats (try the madeleines), but it is also an upscale tapas bar. The main company has several locations of similar shops all around Paris.

Bellota-Bellota
18 rue Jean-Nicot
75007 Paris

Ecole Ferrandi

It's a bit like a canteen but the food is divine at one of the most prestigious culinary schools in Paris.  Very reasonable 18-22 euros.  Book 1 month in advance.

Ecole Ferrandi
28, rue L'abbé-Grégoire
75006 Paris
T: 01 49 54 17 31

Hotel du Nord

Stephanie Micci writing for
I V Y Paris
Hotel du Nord has played many roles over the years, with its origins as a hotel dating all the way back to 1885, to its role as the setting of 1938 film by Marcel Carné and its eponymous name.

Today, although no longer a hotel, it plays the part of one of the best restaurant finds in Paris tucked away on picturesque Canal St. Martin.   

Hidden Kitchen - by Matthew Rose

By Matthew Rose.
Dinner began promptly at 8 at Hidden Kitchen, an innovative dining experience created by a pair of Americans known only as Laura and Braden (their last names are secret!) out of their apartment on Blvd Sebastopol.  The two twenty-something foodies from Seattle have outfitted their spacious dwelling for a unique dining concept and a regular Sunday night gourmand experience that brings 12 people together for an underground nine-course experience of food in the extreme.

Fauchon

Fauchon is one of the best shops to browse for jams, mustards, fine teas and other treats.  A great cave des vins with helpful staff, bakery, and salon de the/restaurant.  Probably the best hampers in the world and great fancy packaging if you'd like to give a friend a gift.

Fauchon
24-26 place de la Madeleine
Paris 75008

L'Autour d'un Verre

All the food is completely fresh from local suppliers, the wine is additive free and does not give one a hangover. It's in a great part of town too, behind Bonne Nouvelle and the Grands Boulevards. There is a warren of streets filled with Jewish traiteurs, Indian musical instrument shops and cool antique stores with odd artifacts.

L'Autour d'un Verre
21 rue de Trévise
75009
(01) 48 24 43 74

Les Nouveaux Robinson

Bio (healthfood/organic) supermarket in the east of Paris. Food, clothing, housewares and body care products.

Les Nouveaux Robinsons
49 rue Raspail
93100 Montreuil-sous-Bois
T: 01.49.88.70.44

TAO

Sitting in the Luxembourg Gardens and a sudden craving for vietnamese overwhelms you? No worries because the petite vietnamese joint, TAO, will satisfy your spicy cravings. The Pho salade is highly recommended, as well as the desserts. Open every day, except Sundays.

TAO
248 rue Saint-Jacques
75005 Paris
T: 01 43 26 75 92

Jean Bart Bistro

On a budget? This cute and rumbustious little Breton dive in the Marais won't let you down.  Crazy lesbian waitress who fights with the other staff - for fun. Don't get it confused with the Tabac next door. I am not suggesting you eat there.  Great mussels and fries and other hearty, reasonably priced fare.

Jean Bart
84 rue Saint Antoine
75004 Paris

Le Comptoir de Terroir

Owned by a charming man with flowing grey locks called Claude from the Sud-Ouest. It's stocked with produits du terroir, brandies, jams, Fois Gras, sel de Guérande. The design of the shop is magnificent, kind of Dean & Delucca but more understated. With great jazz.

Claude is opening a bookshop opposite which will be part bar, literary salon and quiet reading/study space. It will be specialising in contemporary fiction and new writer and the last Prix Goncourt winner François Weyergans is involved in the venture.

Le Comptoir de Terroir
5 rue Etienne Marcel
75001 Paris
T: 01 42 33 99 24

Chez Paul

Deliciously heavy on the fat content but very atmospheric.  here's the place to try the Escargots and bone marrow if you feel the need.  Request to sit upstairs which is lovely and cosy.  And make sure the taxi takes you to this one in the Bastille, (not Butte aux Cailles in the 13th where there is another of the same name).

Chez Paul
13 rue de Charonne
75011
01 47 00 34 57

Le Baratin

Book in advance. Very hip with the East Parisian bobo crowd who love the Franco-Argentinian chef, Sra Raquel Caréla.

Le Baratin
3 rue Jouye-Rouve
75020 Paris
01 43 49 39 70

Dining at Le Meurice Hotel

For over-the-top opulence you won't go wrong at the the Hôtel Meurice, opposite the Tuileries gardens.  Make time for lunch and indulge your Louis Quinze fantasies. Michelin starred chef, Yannick Alléno has made it one of the most sought after tables in town since his arrival in 2003.  He won a third star before turning 40 - pas mal.

Le Meurice
228 rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris
T:+33 1 44 58 10 10

Chez Omar

Oh, Omar. Who's ass did you kiss to attract the fashion crowd that has stood you in such good stead these past 5 years?  Still the place to "slum it" on cous cous.  Downside, no reservations. Chez Omar 47 rue de Bretagne 75003 01 42 72 36 26

Le Bar à Huitres

The saying goes: "Never eat oysters in a month without an 'R' in it." or as P.J. O'Rourke put it "Never serve oysters in a month that has no paycheck in it." When you have the means, this is one of the best places to splurge.

La Bar à Huitres
33 rue St-Jacques
75005

Patrick Roger- Chocolatier

New kid on the block Patrick Roger flavours his ganaches with lime, basil, jasmin, quince and Szechuan pepper corns.

Patrick Roger
108 blvd. Saint-Germain
75006 Paris

Bouillon Racine

Most beautiful art-nouveau decor and a great lunch time prix-fixe.

Bouillon Racine
3 Rue Racine
75006
(01) 44 32 15 60

Little Italy

It's not large but this Italian café next to rue Montorgueil offers a haven for anyone starved of decent Italian food (thin on the ground in Paris). The anti-pasti is magnifico. The staff are harrassed but nice- no reservations and often a wait outside.

Little Italy
92 rue Montorgueil
75002

Goumanyat & Son Royaume

If your cooking seems a bit bland, spice it up with some of the best herbs and spices. There are several shops that can supply you with all of the zesty flavors you need to impress a dinner party or charm a date.

The Food Markets of Paris

There's nothing better than exploring a neighbourhood market and hunting down your next meal.  The Mairie de Paris have this excellent page on their site with information on the opening times and locations of every market in town.  Where ever you are, you'll usually be within walking distance of at least one or two.   Beats Monoprix hands down.

Sunday Market at Marche d'Aligre

For East Parisian thirtysomethings, there's only one place to be seen on a Sunday morning -- Marche d'Aligre, schlepping around in their trendy sandals for the week's groceries. The market is one of the less chi-chi in Paris, and the stall-holders are pretty aggressive when it comes to marketing their wares. Some will stop you on your way past and try and force-feed melon or cherries or whatever fruit is in season. In the heart of the square the market surrounds is the (slightly more genteel) March Couvert Beauvau-St-Antoine; it's a section of permanent stalls, and one of the last covered markets in Paris.
Read entire I V Y Paris article here...

E. Dehillerin Cooks' Shop

Simply the best shop for anyone interested in serious cooking.
E. DEHILLERIN , a family run business of international reknown, selects the highest quality kitchen utensils for ultimate cooking performance.  You may be surprised at the slightly, shall we say ramshackle appearance of the  shop but the service is knowledgable and professional.  Great for knives, pans, moulds and the great silicon baking sheets recommended by Paule Caillat.

Cap Thai

I don't know many better Thai restaurants in Paris. So, if your craving some Tom kha ghai soup and pad thai head on over to...

Cap Thai
18 rue Taine
Paris 75012
01 43 43 81 48

Jean-Paul Hevin - Chocolatier

Top choc shop. Also has a sophisticated Salon de Thé - great for a lunch entre copînes, it's not too expensive.

Jean-Paul Hevin
231, rue Saint-Honoré
75001 Paris

Point Bar and Restaurant

Alice Bardet comes from a famous gastronomic family from Tours.  You’ll find in her restaurant delicate dishes prepared with real finesse and not too expensive. Perfect for dinner with friends in a superb central location.

Point Bar
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
Paris 75001

01 42 61 76 28

Eric Kayser Boulangerie

One of the best bakeries in Paris - you need to check out these baguettes.

Boulangerie Kayser
8 & 14 rue Monge
75005

Other branches:
87 rue d'Assas 75005
79 rue du Commerce 75015
49 rue Linois 75015

A Day In the Life of French Cuisine

Paule Caillat is the founder of Promenades Gourmandes, a legendary cooking school in the Marais. You can spend one fine day with Chef Caillat, and learn all the French secrets about their first love: food. The intimate classes include tips for market shopping and creating your very own four-course meal. When was the last time you cooked a canard confit or a creme brulee?  Read the full I V Y paris report on Gridskipper.

La Grande Epicerie

La Grande Epicerie is a wonderful place for foodies with a sense of adventure, (maybe not the place to do the weekly shop though).

This is the best supermarket (if one could tag it with such a lowly name) in Paris for finding treats from home but the French produce is more than mouth-watering.

Also, a great place to scout for good-looking single men and women.

Valet parking out in front.

La Grande Epicerie
38 rue de Sèvres
Paris 75007
Métro: Sèvres-Babylone

La Bague de Kenza

This most delicious of Paris' pâtisseries orientales is also on the rue St Maur and it is extremely difficult to walk past it without caving in and ram raiding the shop. 

The little orientale cake shop is the best in Paris. I came on pilgrimages when I first arrived here - rue St Maur wasn't as chi-chi as it's become now and the only well known bar on rue Oberkampf was Cafe Charbon, a bar in a late 19th-century coal merchant's premises.

Cooperative Latte Cisternino - Best Italian Deli in Paris

Cooperative Latte Cisternino - This is a very missable location in the Oberkampf district because of the low rent style shopfront - just look for the queues.  They receive deliveries from Italy twice a week and you can get amazing buffalo mozzarella. 

I've been spending all my time here recently because of two apartments under-going renovation that have needed constant checking. I love the area but it's very noisy.

Cooperative Latte Cisternino
108 rue St Maur
Paris 75011